Stick drift, dead buttons, loose charging ports and triggers, repaired in-store, usually the same day.
Bring your DualSense, Xbox controller, Joy-Con or Pro Controller to either of our two walk-in locations. We diagnose it in front of you and tell you the price before we open anything.
6551 No. 3 Rd, Richmond, BC V6Y 2B6
935 Marine Dr #39, North Vancouver, BC V7P 1S3
Call us now to check repair availability or visit one of our locations today.
We offer professional game console repair services at our local Vancouver-area locations.
You can bring your console in for a quick inspection, get an honest repair quote, and decide with no pressure. Most common console issues are diagnosed quickly, and many repairs can be completed within the same day.
We proudly serve customers from Richmond, Burnaby, North Vancouver, Surrey, and Coquitlam.
Common work: analog stick drift, L2/R2 trigger faults, USB-C charging port replacement, battery replacement, buttons that stick or stop responding, see our PS5 repair page.
Common work: thumbstick drift, LB/RB bumper failure, trigger travel problems, USB-C or micro-USB port replacement, pairing and disconnection faults. Elite Series 2 paddle and trigger lock issues are also repairable, see our Xbox repair page.
Common work: Joy-Con drift, rail and attachment faults, controllers not being detected by the console, charging problems, and unresponsive buttons, see our Nintendo Switch repair page.
We also look at earlier PlayStation and Xbox controllers and most wired third party pads. Parts availability varies for older models, so call ahead before making the trip.
Your character moves on its own, the camera slowly pans, or the stick registers input when you are not touching it.
This is caused by wear inside the analog module, the potentiometer no longer reads centre correctly. Depending on how far it has gone, we either clean and recalibrate the existing module or replace it entirely.
Replacement is the permanent fix.
The most common Nintendo repair we see. A worn contact pad inside the Joy-Con stick sends input the console reads as movement.
We replace the stick module rather than patching it, and we test the controller in both handheld and detached mode before returning it.
Priced per Joy-Con, so a single drifting side costs less than a pair.
Face buttons, D-pad, or the Share/Options buttons stop registering, need to be pressed hard, or stay pressed.
Usually a worn conductive pad or debris under the membrane.
We open the controller, clean or replace the pad and membrane, and test every button.
L2/R2, LB/RB or ZL/ZR feel loose, do not spring back, or click without doing anything.
On PS5 the adaptive trigger mechanism can also fail while the button still moves.
We replace the trigger assembly, spring or the motor module as needed.
A charging cable that only works at a certain angle, or a controller that stops charging entirely, is almost always a USB-C port that has lifted from the board.
We replace the port itself rather than the whole controller, this is a soldering repair, not a parts swap.
If your controller charges fully but dies after an hour or two, the battery has degraded.
Replacement batteries restore normal runtime and are one of the cheapest repairs on this page.
Pairing fails, the light bar flashes and gives up, or the controller drops mid-game. This can be a wireless module fault, a board level issue, or interference.
We test against a known good console so we can tell you whether the problem is the controller or the console before you pay for anything.
No lights, no response to the pairing button, no reaction on charge.
Often a dead battery or failed charging circuit, but sometimes board damage. The diagnostic tells us which, at no cost to you.
The Joy-Con will not lock onto the console, or attaches but is not recognised.
Usually a damaged rail or rail connector. We replace the rail assembly and confirm detection on both sides.
Soda, coffee and water cause corrosion that keeps spreading after the controller dries. The sooner it comes in, the better the outcome.
We clean the board and replace corroded components where possible, and we tell you honestly if it is not worth the repair.
Controllers are not cheap to replace. A new DualSense or Xbox Wireless Controller sits well above $80 in Canada, an Elite Series 2 is far more, and a pair of Joy-Con is one of the most expensive accessories Nintendo sells. Most of the repairs on this page cost a fraction of that.
We will tell you which situation you are in during the free diagnostic. If we think replacing is the smarter choice, we will say so, we would rather you trust the advice than pay for a repair that does not last.
If the problem is with the console itself rather than the controller, see our game console repair page.
DualSense: single stick or button repair: $25
DualSense: battery or frame repair: $35
DualSense: USB-C charging port replacement: $45
DualSense Edge: stick or button repair: $29
Xbox Series X|S: single stick or button repair: $25
Elite Series 2: stick, button or paddle repair: $29
Trigger or bumper mechanism repair: $35
USB-C charging port replacement: $45
Joy-Con drift: module replacement (single): $25
Joy-Con drift: module replacement (pair): $40
Joy-Con rail replacement: $35
Switch Pro Controller: stick drift: $29
Diagnostic: Free
Drift-proof TMR stick upgrade (both sticks): $59
Liquid damage cleaning & board service: from $59
Prices are before tax and cover parts and labour. We confirm the exact cost after the free diagnostic and before any work begins. Every repair includes a 30-day warranty.
Timing depends on parts availability for your specific model. Call ahead and we will confirm before you come in.
1. Free diagnostic: we test the controller in store and identify the exact fault.
2. Clear quote: you get the price and the turnaround before we open anything. No pressure to proceed.
3. Component level repair: we replace the failing part, not the whole board, using quality components.
4. Full testing: every stick, button, trigger and the charging circuit is tested, and the controller is paired to a console before you collect it.
Yes. DualSense drift is one of our most common repairs. Depending on how worn the module is, we either clean and recalibrate it or replace the analog module outright. Replacement is the permanent fix and is done the same day in most cases.
Yes. We replace the Joy-Con stick module rather than applying a temporary fix, and we price it per Joy-Con, so repairing one drifting side costs less than a pair. Switch 2 Joy-Con 2 controllers are also repairable.
Repairs start at $29 for stick drift cleaning and recalibration. Module replacements, charging ports and trigger repairs cost more depending on the controller. The diagnostic is free and you get the exact price before any work begins.
Most drift, button and trigger repairs are completed the same day. Charging port replacements are usually same day as well. Liquid damage takes 2 to 3 days.
In most cases, yes, a repair typically costs a fraction of a new controller, and that gap is wider for Elite, Edge and Joy-Con models. If the board is badly corroded or the housing is damaged, we will tell you honestly that replacement is the better option.
Yes. We handle thumbstick drift, bumper and trigger faults, paddle problems and charging port replacement on the Elite Series 2.
Yes. A charging cable that only works at a certain angle almost always means the USB-C port has lifted from the board. We replace the port at component level rather than replacing the controller.
Either is possible. We test your controller against a known good console so we can tell you which device is actually at fault before you pay for a repair.
No. Walk-ins are welcome at both our Richmond and North Vancouver locations. Calling ahead is optional and just helps us confirm parts availability for your model.
Yes. All controller repairs include a 30-day warranty on parts and labour.
Drift, dead buttons or a charging port that will not hold, bring it to our Richmond or North Vancouver store and get a free diagnostic with no obligation. Most repairs are finished the same day.
